In addition to buzzy trends and viral moments, one of the most exciting parts of Fashion Month is discovering up-and-coming talents in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Here, we’re highlighting nine standout emerging designers from the Fall/Winter 2022 collections, from celebrity-approved names such as Chet Lo and Maximilian Davis, to sustainability– and inclusivity-focused names like Supriya Lele and Ester Manas.
Continue scrolling to learn about the standout names of Fashion Month this season. While you’re here, see the top shows and runway trends spotted at Paris Fashion Week.
Central Saint Martins alum Chet Lo, loved by stars like SZA and Doja Cat, returned to the Fashion East runway to showcase updated takes on his signature spike knits. This time around, the designer revealed that he created more opaque designs in contrast to his previous collection to ensure “girls are comfortable wearing [his] clothes.”
Conner Ives, who has dressed Adwoa Aboah for the Met Gala and worked with Rihanna on Fenty, is another up-and-coming designer to look out for. Shortly after graduating from CSM last year, the creative was selected as a runner-up for the 2021 LVMH Prize. For his latest collection, Ives featured an array of repurposed and upcycled looks highlighted with a mix of patterns and prints.
A label committed to sustainability and inclusivity, Ester Manas showcased her second runway in Paris this season. The collection was filled with ruched details, softly hugging models’ bodies with asymmetrical hems and cut-out details at the waist. “I am making clothes to welcome everyone,” the designer told Vogue, adding: “I’m big, and always I fit on myself first. A lot of brands have a curvy girl on the catwalk now—but the reality is, you cannot find a good size in the store afterwards. I mean—just an image, nothing more.”
Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka of House of Aama revisited their 2017 “Bloodroot” collection this season. They took inspiration from their family’s traditions of Catholicism and Hoodoo and Voodoo practices to create colorful, frilled dresses and shirts. Further standouts of the range included cropped tops and wrapped skirts, as well as menswear looks in jacquard.
Lagos-born designer Kenneth Ize is known for applying West African influences to his work. Striped aso oke fabric dominated his FW22 presentation, which was comprised of suit sets with fringed details at the hem. The 2019 LVMH Prize finalist further incorporated details such as cut-outs, velvet yokes and more.
French brand MaisonCléo looked to summery beaches for its Paris Fashion Week debut. The runway featured bandeaus, swimsuits and sarongs for both beach and daywear, dressed in soft tones of pinks, blues and more. Founder Marie Dewet explained to Hypebae: “Everything is handmade, so it’s a point of pride for us to show people that the handmade-to-order system still exists and can be successful as a brand.” She added: “We worked on simple, yet also fancy pieces to create a full summer wardrobe we’ll want to wear all the time. It’s also the first time we introduce swimsuits in our brand, so it’s exciting to finally launch this new project.”
Maximilian Davis, who was recently nominated for the LVMH Prize and has dressed Kim Kardashian, Rihanna and Dua Lipa, is undoubtedly one of the most exciting names in fashion right now. Shortly after presenting his final Fashion East runway, the designer was appointed as the new creative director to lead Salvatore Ferragamo. For FW22, he revealed 25 looks including a long-sleeved white dress and a black bustier paired with a brown corduroy skirt. The collection featured spiritual influences, with the show’s notes reading: “My family wanted to have something to follow, which is in line with the importance religion holds for so many Black families. Ever since slavery, Black communities have looked to God for strength, for a belief that this will all come to an end, for security and guidance.”
Supriya Lele revealed a range of size-inclusive designs on her FW22 runway with sheer, cut-out details on dresses, tops, wrap skirts and more. The designer used a vibrant color palette of blues and reds, contrasting all-black looks.
Tia Adeola returned to the runway after her debut show just before the pandemic broke out in February 2020. The designer applied her signature Renaissance-inspired ruffle details to dresses, tops and skirts, while introducing looks featuring new graphics and corsets. She took inspiration from the End SARS movement in her home ground, Nigeria, adding text reading “You were supposed to protect us” to dresses.